Joining forums, reading books, and watching videos are the best way to start soapmaking, but are they using terms you haven’t heard of before? Or using words you know (ie: acceleration) but you’re not sure how that applies to soap making?
Here is a list of common terms used in soap making and their definitions.
Cold Process:
Cold process soap making is a method of soap making that involves mixing oils or fats with a lye solution at room temperature or slightly above. This process does not involve adding external heat, hence the term "cold process." The mixture undergoes saponification over a period of time, typically 24 to 48 hours, during which it thickens and solidifies into soap. Cold process soap making allows for more control over ingredients and additives, as well as the opportunity to create intricate designs and patterns.
Hot Process:
Hot process soap making is another method of soap making that involves heating the soap mixture during the saponification process. In hot process soap making, the oils or fats and lye solution are combined and then heated either in a crockpot, double boiler, or on the stovetop. The mixture is continuously stirred and heated until saponification is complete, resulting in a thick, cooked soap paste. Hot process soap making can be quicker than cold process and may result in a more rustic appearance. However, it may not allow for intricate designs or patterns as easily as cold process soap making.
Heat Transfer Method:
In the heat transfer method, soap makers utilize the heat produced by the lye solution to melt hard oils and butters in the soap recipe. This means adding your lye to the hard oils and butters right after the lye crystals dissolve and melting them that way. This approach simplifies the soap making process by eliminating the need for separate heating of the oils and butters, reducing the risk of overheating or scorching the ingredients. Not every recipe is compatible with the heat transfer method, because you need enough heat generated to melt all your hard oils and butters. For more information on this method, check out my blog post called The Fasted Way To Make Cold Process Soap.
Saponification:
Saponification is the chemical reaction that occurs when fats or oils (triglycerides) are combined with a strong alkali, such as sodium hydroxide (for solid soap) or potassium hydroxide (for liquid soap). This reaction produces soap and glycerin as byproducts. During saponification, the triglycerides are hydrolyzed, breaking apart into fatty acid salts (soap molecules) and glycerol. The soap molecules are then able to mix with water to form a lather, effectively cleaning surfaces, including skin and fabrics.
Superfat:
In soap making, "superfat" refers to the amount of extra fats or oils that remain in the soap after the saponification process. This extra fat serves several purposes, including moisturizing the skin, making the soap more gentle, and ensuring that all the lye is fully reacted. It helps prevent the soap from being too harsh or drying on the skin.
Water Discount:
In soap making, a water discount refers to reducing the amount of water used in the soap recipe compared to the standard amount. This can result in a firmer and harder bar of soap, as less water needs to evaporate during the curing process. Water discounts are often used to speed up the curing time of soap or to create a harder bar more quickly. However, it's essential to carefully calculate and adjust the lye amount when applying a water discount to maintain the correct lye to oil ratio for safe and effective soap making.
Master Batching:
Master batching lye is a process commonly used by soap makers to prepare a large quantity of lye solution in advance, which can then be stored and used as needed for soap making. The process involves carefully measuring and mixing the lye (sodium hydroxide) with water in specific proportions to create a concentrated lye solution.
Emulsifying:
Emulsifying refers to the process of combining two immiscible substances, such as oil and water, into a stable mixture. In soap making, emulsification occurs when the oils or fats are mixed with a water-based solution containing lye. During emulsification, the polar and nonpolar molecules in the oil and water are rearranged to form an emulsion, with the oil dispersed evenly throughout the water. This process is crucial for soap making because it allows the oils and lye solution to mix thoroughly, leading to the formation of soap molecules through saponification. Emulsification is typically achieved through blending and stirring until the mixture reaches a state known as "trace."
Trace:
In soap making, "trace" refers to the stage in the soap making process when the mixture reaches a thickened consistency. At trace, the oils or fats and the lye solution have emulsified and begun to combine, resulting in a homogeneous mixture. When the soap batter is lifted with a spoon or spatula and then drizzled back into the pot, it leaves a visible trail or "trace" on the surface before sinking back in. This stage indicates that the saponification process has begun and that the soap is ready to be poured into molds. The time it takes to reach trace can vary depending on factors such as the temperature of the ingredients and the method of mixing.
Acceleration:
A situation where the soap batter thickens and sets up more quickly than expected after the addition of fragrance oils, essential oils, or other additives. This rapid thickening can make it challenging to pour the batter into molds or create intricate designs. Acceleration can be caused by certain fragrance or essential oils, as well as by additives such as clays or botanicals. You need to work quickly and be prepared to adapt your techniques when acceleration occurs to achieve the desired results in the finished soap bars.
Gel Phase:
In soap making, the gel phase is a stage during saponification where the soap batter heats up and becomes semi-transparent or translucent. This occurs when the soap's internal temperature rises to around 120-160°F (49-71°C) and the soap undergoes a partial gelatinization process. During the gel phase, the soap's colors may become more vibrant, and the texture may appear more uniform. Some soap makers intentionally encourage the gel phase, while others prefer to prevent it by keeping the soap batter cool to maintain a more opaque appearance. The gel phase can affect the final appearance and texture of the soap.
Soda Ash:
Soda ash, also known as sodium carbonate, is a common byproduct in soap making that can form on the surface of freshly poured soap. It appears as a white, powdery residue and is caused by the reaction of the lye with carbon dioxide in the air. Soda ash is harmless and can be easily washed off the surface of the soap with water or wiped away. While it doesn't affect the quality or performance of the soap, soap makers often aim to prevent or minimize soda ash formation for aesthetic reasons.
Glycerine Rivers:
Glycerin rivers are a common visual phenomenon in soap making characterized by translucent, wavy lines or streaks that appear in finished soap bars. These rivers are caused by variations in temperature during the saponification process. When certain ingredients, such as titanium dioxide or vanillin (found in fragrance oils), cause the soap to heat unevenly, pockets of glycerin can form within the soap. As the soap cools and hardens, these pockets of glycerin become visible as rivers or streaks. Glycerin rivers are purely cosmetic and do not affect the quality or performance of the soap. Some soap makers embrace them as a natural part of the soap-making process, while others may take steps to minimize their appearance by adjusting ingredients or curing conditions.
Vanillin:
Vanillin is a compound commonly found in fragrance oils, especially those with sweet, creamy, or dessert-like scents, such as vanilla, caramel, or chocolate. It is responsible for imparting a warm, sweet aroma reminiscent of vanilla beans. While vanillin adds a delightful fragrance to soap, it can also cause discoloration over time. When exposed to air and light, vanillin can oxidize and turn brown, leading to discoloration in the soap. This discoloration is purely cosmetic and does not affect the soap's performance or quality. Soap makers may choose to use vanillin-containing fragrance oils knowing that their soaps may develop a darker hue over time, or they may opt for vanillin-free fragrance oils to avoid discoloration.
Heat Tunneling:
When a loaf of soap gets too hot during the curing process, it can result in what’s known as “heat tunneling.” This phenomenon occurs when the outer layer of the soap loaf hardens faster than the inner portion. As the outer layer solidifies, it creates a barrier that traps heat and moisture inside the soap loaf. As the trapped heat and moisture build up, they can create channels or tunnels within the soap loaf. These tunnels are formed as the inner, softer portion of the soap heats up and expands, pushing through the partially solidified outer layer. The result is visible channels or tunnels running through the soap, often resembling air bubbles or voids. Heat tunneling can affect the overall appearance and texture of the soap, potentially leading to cosmetic imperfections such as uneven color distribution or irregular surface texture. To prevent heat tunneling, soap makers typically aim to control the curing environment by maintaining consistent temperatures and humidity levels throughout the curing process. Additionally, allowing the soap to cure at a moderate temperature and avoiding rapid temperature fluctuations can help minimize the risk of heat tunneling and ensure a more uniform curing process.
Cracking:
A loaf of handmade soap can develop cracks due to various factors. One common reason is rapid temperature fluctuations during the curing process, where the outer layer cools and hardens faster than the inner portion, causing stress and subsequent cracking as the soap settles. Additionally, high water content in the soap recipe or insufficient curing time can lead to excess moisture within the soap, creating pressure that results in cracks as the soap attempts to release the trapped moisture. Inconsistent mixing of ingredients or the use of improperly blended materials can weaken the soap's structure, making it more susceptible to cracking during curing. Overheating the soap, whether due to exposure to high temperatures or direct sunlight, can also cause uneven expansion and contraction, leading to surface stress and cracking. Furthermore, inadequate support during curing or improper handling and storage can contribute to the development of cracks in handmade soap. To prevent cracking, it's essential to follow a well-tested soap recipe, ensure stable curing conditions, and provide proper support and handling throughout the curing process.
Curing:
Curing soap is the process of allowing freshly made soap bars to sit and dry out over a period of time before they are ready for use. During curing, excess water evaporates from the soap, resulting in a harder, longer-lasting bar with a milder pH level. The duration of curing can vary depending on factors such as the recipe, the ingredients used, and personal preference, but it typically ranges from several weeks to several months. Curing allows any residual moisture to distribute evenly throughout the soap, reducing the risk of DOS (Dreaded Orange Spots) and improving the overall quality of the soap bars.
Dreaded Orange Spots (DOS):
Dreaded Orange Spots (DOS), also known as rancidity spots or orange discoloration, are a common issue in soap making characterized by the appearance of small, orange or rust-colored spots on the surface or within the soap bars. These spots can develop over time and are typically caused by the oxidation of unsaturated oils or fats used in the soap recipe. Factors that contribute to the formation of DOS include exposure to air, light, heat, and moisture. Oxygen in the air reacts with the unsaturated fatty acids in the soap, leading to the formation of compounds that give rise to the orange discoloration. To prevent Dreaded Orange Spots, soap makers can use antioxidants such as vitamin E or rosemary extract in their recipes, store finished soap bars in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and moisture, and use fresh oils and fats with low levels of unsaturation. Additionally, ensuring proper curing and storage conditions can help mitigate the risk of DOS.
I hope you found this helpful! Did I miss anything? Let me know and I will add it!
-Lindsay
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